Surfing the sublime – on leisure and warfare
Robertsport, Liberia 2017 Preamble: My desk is facing the beach and ocean. I am currently on the small Indonesian island of Sumba, and my Californian neighbour is hitting…
Robertsport, Liberia 2017 Preamble: My desk is facing the beach and ocean. I am currently on the small Indonesian island of Sumba, and my Californian neighbour is hitting…
Surfing’s roots are in long-standing cultures in the Pacific Islands, South America, and West Africa. After wave-riding was banned by European Missionaries who deemed it leisurely and “sav…
Publicity photo from the making of The Endless Summer. Photographer unknown. Public Domain. Bruce Brown’s mid 1960’s surf epic The Endless Summer is one of the key elements…
Mid to late 1990s beach scene. North San Diego County, CA. Photo: Ryan Anderson All the grades are in, summer is here, and we can all start ‘relaxing’…
Tom Curren, logo-free, 1991. Photography by Tom Servais. Do you ever think about the first time a concept really stuck for you? Not the first time you heard…
David Whyte, UCL Anthropology Unpacking at Duggie. Photo: David Whyte “We’re probably going to surf Banna Strand, but the swell might still be a bit small, I just…