Surfing the sublime – on leisure and warfare
Robertsport, Liberia 2017 Preamble: My desk is facing the beach and ocean. I am currently on the small Indonesian island of Sumba, and my Californian neighbour is hitting…
Tag: surfing
Waves of Well-being: Surfing at the Shaka Surf Club in Kodi Bengre, India
Surfing’s roots are in long-standing cultures in the Pacific Islands, South America, and West Africa. After wave-riding was banned by European Missionaries who deemed it leisurely and “sav…
Summer anthropologies #1: The Nameless Summer
Publicity photo from the making of The Endless Summer. Photographer unknown. Public Domain. Bruce Brown’s mid 1960’s surf epic The Endless Summer is one of the key elements…
Summer anthropologies: beaches and baseball
Mid to late 1990s beach scene. North San Diego County, CA. Photo: Ryan Anderson All the grades are in, summer is here, and we can all start ‘relaxing’…
Surfing vs. the commodification of everything
Tom Curren, logo-free, 1991. Photography by Tom Servais. Do you ever think about the first time a concept really stuck for you? Not the first time you heard…
Knowledge as Material Movement in Surfing and Anthropology
David Whyte, UCL Anthropology Unpacking at Duggie. Photo: David Whyte “We’re probably going to surf Banna Strand, but the swell might still be a bit small, I just…